Helen Wyman's Munich to Venice Bike Odyssey

It was whilst I was out enjoying the local gravel trails after the birth of my son that I stumbled across a sign. On it was a map that referenced the Munich to Venice long-distance bike route. Without further thought, I snapped a quick photo and tried to contain a shiver of excitement at discovering our next cycling adventure.

I couldn't get home fast enough to break the news to my husband Stef. So began the planning phase of our next big adventure. Two years, a broken shoulder, a sprained back, and a significant amount of planning later, it looked like we were finally going to make it to the start line. Until 36 hours before our scheduled departure, that is, when I put my back out.

With it looking like our adventure was going to be derailed yet again, I was in a state of panic. Anxiously, I called everyone I knew. Hoping beyond hope to find some last-minute treatment that would, at worst, make it less sore. Thankfully I know some very good people. So, we were ready to ride with the promise of some rapid improvement. 

Bike Setup

The bike I rode was the CGR AL e, with the optional range extender. Here is a breakdown of the kit we used

• Gearing: Ultegra mechanical, 36/50 and 11/28.
• Baggage: Altura Dryline panniers, top bag and bar bag.
• Trailer: Thule Chariot Cross

Living in Munich, we had the luxury of being able to join the route just 3km from home. I had ridden most of the first 50km previously and knew it was fine for the trailer. One of our biggest fears was having to carry our heavy bikes, Thule trailer and the kid, over steps and rough terrain. So knowing at the outset that it was possible was always going to be a bonus.

We noticed straight away how well signposted the route was. In addition to how much time we spent on segregated bike roads, paths and gravel. We barely saw a car the entire day. It had been decided in advance that we would stop at certain towns for lunch. Doing so meant that Sascha (my son) could get out for a long run around and play.

Even though we didn't always find a cafe, we never ran short of playgrounds! That night we were staying in a hotel on the lake and the route to get to it was simply stunning. As it turned out, it was a bike hotel, complete with charging points, bike lock up and a delicious Bavarian dinner.

We decided to use the road for the first 10km of the route instead of the gravel. Which made for 150m less altitude and 3km less off-road. As soon as we rejoined the trail, we encountered gravel and discovered the short sharp hills were unnecessary when the road was so smooth and empty.

Within an hour of riding, we were back on a bike path riding around our next lake. I'm so impressed at how the route uses so many bike paths and how stunning the views are from these. Lunch consisted of a picnic outside a supermarket down in the Innsbruck valley. Which seemed to be just as fun for Sascha as yesterday's stone-throwing lunch stop.

I had the range extender fitted to the bike, and today was the first day that I really needed it. Our hotel was situated atop a 6km climb out of Innsbruck, with steep sections the whole way up. We agreed that when we hit the climb, I would ride at my own pace, and Stef would meet us at the top.

With 100% assist, me going full gas, and a slight tailwind, we made it 15mins before my poor husband did. And him carrying all of our luggage without the benefit of a motor! I love taking Sascha on adventures in the trailer, but even for me, dragging 35kg of weight behind me was at the limit of what I enjoy doing. Without this range extender, the trip would not have been possible.

You'd think starting at the top of a hill would mean riding downhill to begin the day? As it turns out, this was not the case! We rode a slight downhill, followed by the old road to the Brenner Pass. The hotel owner had advised us that we shouldn't take the trailer up the road to Brenner because it's really busy and unsafe.

She informed us that there was a train that you could take from the bottom. And that bikes are free! Now, as tempting as this sounded, we planned to judge this for ourselves. My idea of danger could easily be different to other people. Although Stef was very tempted with the option to bypass another 10kms of climbing!

As soon as we joined the main road, Stef and I agreed it was totally fine. Maybe it was just because it was a Saturday morning, or maybe it was just a good day. But either way, it wasn't that busy, and most people weren't in a hurry to go anywhere. Except for me, that is. I was trying really hard to set a good pace. Also, not to drop Stef, who was endeavouring to tuck in behind the trailer.

If you've never tried it, getting wind protection from something lower than your handlebars is nearly impossible. After cresting the top of the hill, we were back on this glorious old railway that zig-zagged its way down into the next valley where we stayed for the night. It's only day three, and we have already crossed from Germany through Austria into Italy!

With over 1000m of climbing in today's route, it was always going to be tough. Though most of the climbing actually proved to be pretty gentle. Many of the paths are near railway lines and thus keep the gradient down to 3-5%. Which is perfect for the e-bike. We seemed to ride through the countryside the entire day. Until lunch, that is, when we happened across this little cafe in the middle of nowhere.

It was situated right next to a kid's playground and looked more like a bar than a food place. But we risked it anyway. As it turned out, it was a locally renowned pizza parlour and tasted simply heavenly. Sometimes when you are that hungry from bike riding, everything tastes divine. However, I'm pretty sure it was great pizza.

Today I used up every last bit of the battery; with all of the climbing, I got to the hotel with just 8% remaining. Which I was pretty chuffed with. I used the app during the day to monitor energy usage and ensure that I wasn't overusing or making my body waste too much energy. After all, we still had 3 days of riding to go.

So although there was a moment where I thought I'd overcooked it, everything worked out perfectly in the end. Today was also notable because it was the first day we were overtaken by a lorry. This really stood out to me, as I hadn't expected the route to be quite so vehicle-free.

Today was the day I had been looking forward to the most - riding through the Dolomites. I've ridden the Alps, the Pyrenees and now finally the last of the famous mountain ranges of Europe. They didn't disappoint. Surrounded by beautiful rocky outcrops, we rode on gravel roads at a very gradual gradient. Entirely alone in the woods.

It was so calm and peaceful, apart from the cows, who obviously didn't seem inclined to move off our path. Over the top of the main climb, the trail veered away from the main road. This time it led us down into this beautiful valley that afforded us stunning views of the river all the way to the next mountain town. Although this was our shortest day of the trip, we messed up the timing of our lunch break.

This resulted in us having to push on until just 10km short of the hotel. Where we finally found an ice cream shop. I'm pretty sure the boys were not disappointed in their "lunch". The bonus of arriving at the hotel so early was an afternoon of searching for the Roman statues and playing in the local lake. Water is definitely a theme of this entire trip.

Every day of the trip, we would check the weather and every day, it suggested there would be rain. It wasn't until today that the forecasted rain finally arrived. Whether we departed late or early would not have changed the situation by one iota. The first two hours of the ride were gradually downhill, and I couldn't help but wonder how beautiful the view of the mountains we were leaving behind would have been.

The roads, however, were pleasant to ride and quiet as we followed the river. The terrain was ever-changing as the valley opened up and transformed into olive trees and grape vines. That night we stayed in a gorgeous little holiday house with the most spectacular terrace. Which Sascha spent the entire evening doing laps of!

It turns out that all those vines were for making sparkling wine and just 200m from where we sat was one of the most famous vineyards in the area. I'm glad I didn't know, or poor Stef would have had to carry a bottle or two to our next hotel.

This was our final day in the saddle and mostly flat. Thankfully the rain had abated, and we woke up to the most amazing blue sky. We even saw part of the mountains shrouded by mist during yesterday's ride. With an initial fear of what the Italian roads would be like in such a built-up area, our minds were soon put at ease.

Somehow the planners have created a fantastic cycle route, connecting major towns via well-constructed cycle paths that follow the main river all the way into Venice. With about 20km to go, and after our lunch stop, we encountered a headwind for the first time on our trip.

I jokingly said to Stef, "don't worry, I'll just sit on the front on full assist at 25.9kph; it'll be easy". A minute later, he's already tucked in and insists this is to protect us from traffic. We didn't see any traffic until the last couple of kilometres to our hotel. Because bicycles are not allowed in Venice, we booked a place in Mestre, situated on the mainland next to Venice.

However, Venice now has this amazing underground bike park with metal cages to lock your bike inside. They are right as you enter the city and are perfectly safe and wide enough to keep your luggage on your bike if you want to. Had we known of this in advance, we would have changed our plans. 

After seven days of riding through mostly sun, a little rain and some of the most beautiful scenery, we had reached our destination, and it felt perfect. It seems like a strange thing to be proud of when it really wasn't that far. But I was proud of Sascha for embracing life in the trailer and a new environment every single day.

I was equally proud of Stef, who hadn't ridden back-to-back in years. I was really proud of us as a family for taking on the adventure and creating some amazing memories. 590km, 4900m climbing, 7 days, mission completed.

I was incredibly apprehensive about taking a toddler into a city with hundreds of canals and rivers and not very many barriers. However, it turned out it wasn't so bad after all. Maybe because the weather wasn't great for being a tourist. There were fewer people, and Sascha loved running up and down all the bridges. He even took his first boat trip!

Though we had not technically ridden into Venice on day seven, we did need to get the train home from there. So, finally, on day nine, we took the obligatory bridge photo. There was one slight hurdle to overcome, however. We had to check how to get our bikes to the station with the local policemen.

Venice was festooned with signs stating 'no bikes'. The policemen, however, assured us that we would not be arrested for walking them over the first bridge to the station. That was a job for Stef, just in case!

We then took the train back to Munich, which was lovely too. We even got to see some of the routes we had ridden in reverse! The entire trip was a dream; the whole family loved it. Stef even started getting excited about the next adventure. SO WATCH THIS SPACE.

Route Information

Click here to find details of the route.

For details of where to park your bike in Venice, click here

View the route on Kommoot here.

Top Tips for Travelling with a Toddler

1. Ensure they are happy hanging out in a trailer before embarking on any big adventure.
2. Plan regular stops, at least every 2 hours of riding.
3. Mix up the selection of toys you hide in the trailer pockets each day, and combine this with some treats to keep the trailer exciting on longer days.
4. I'm no child psychologist, but we asked Sascha to get in the trailer each day, and I honestly believe that makes such a huge difference. In his mind, he had decided to get in the trailer.
5. Allow approximately 20 minutes extra before you leave for number 4 to work!
6. Remember to take a million photo's as they won't remember the trip when they are older but will love hearing the stories.

Top Tips for Bike Packing

1. Plan, plan, plan everything.
2. Pack, then repack and finally, the night before, pack one last time. You always start with way more than you actually need. By doing this, you get ruthless, and by the 3rd pack, you will have what you need.
3. Ensure that all equipment is in top condition the week prior to leaving. The last thing you want is a split tyre on day one and no way to repair it as it's a Sunday and everything is shut.
4. Plan where to stop, especially in Europe. Even if it's just a town as shops don't always open at the same time, and small villages along the route may offer nothing suitable. The last thing you want is to be hungry when riding for multiple days back to back.
5. Enjoy it! Touring is about what you see along the way, not just getting to your destination. You always see much more than you ever anticipated, and your camera will never capture every moment. So, your mind has to try and save it for you.

Richard Stoodley tells us why he decided to retrace his father's footsteps across Europe - from D-Day to captivity. Read his story here.

A recent convert to cycling, Jane tells us about her biggest ride to date - the Five Ferries Island Hopping Challenge. Read her story here.